The Punk Rock Legacy

Article by Millie Edwards

Bente Oort for Vogue China

Everyone thinks they know punk: those iconic images from Carnaby Street and the Kings Road; the Sex Pistols exploding onto the scene in 1976 – five-inch-high Mohicans, multiple piercings, an angry sneer at the world. But punk’s impact isn’t limited to a single year or even decade, and its legacy is everywhere, from the catwalk to the street. Punk didn’t come from nowhere though. We can see influences in its lines, materials, accessories and attitude from glam rock, skinheads, greasers and mods. And in turn, it’s cast its influence far and wide, ranging from the outstanding designs of Vivienne Westwood (the arguable originator of punk, and my personal favourite designer) to smaller “dressed down” punk brands.

Bente Oort Delivers Punk Attitude for Vogue China

At the high end, punk clearly had an effect on designers, Alexander McQueen and Jean Paul Gaultier. We can see, even after McQueen died, the theme of punk has been carried on through his brand, most recently seen in his S/S 17 show in which they used safety pins, tears in sweatshirts and the signature colours of punk: red and black. Like punk, Jean Paul Gaultier designs are considered daring and shocking. He quite often uses leather, and in his S/S 11 show, he used big punk-style mohawks, collars and crop jackets.

The classic and key design features of punk are studs and spikes – we can see these accessorising leather jackets, boots, trousers, jewellery and headwear. Another key feature is chains. These were the influence of glam and gothic cultures, and are being worked into clothing and being worn as necklaces, bracelets and belts. We can see these reflected on the street now, with teens of all persuasions – not necessarily identifying as punks – using dog chains as belts and jewellery. And we can see brands like The Ragged Priest incorporating chain into their clothing designs, for example from their A/W 2019 collections onwards, they’ve used chunky metal chain as straps for their tops and dresses, as well as previous collections where chain has been used as an accessory on trousers and skirts. 

Alice Dellal; Pam Hogg Runway (From Zimbio on Pinterest)

Boots are also a big part of punk fashion. The original cherry red and black eight-hole Dr Marten is the image we all associate with the look, and is still selling well, but brands like New Rock are bringing punk into today, using big platform soles and chunky metal clasps. It’s interesting to see Dr Martens do the same with their hugely popular Jadon range of platforms.  In terms of clothing, it’s leather and plaid we link most to the look. In my eyes, leather, whether it be used for jackets, skirts or trousers, always screams a little bit of punk. While plaid, popularised by Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren, is probably the most recognisable textile of punk fashion, commonly used as a schoolgirl style kilt worn by every gender, and skinny trousers.

Dilara Findikoglu Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear

You may not think you’re punk, but all of us are a little punk at heart. The fact is, punk has shaped fashion for the better, giving people over the last five decades and counting the freedom to be themselves, stand out, and not confirm to the social norm, and, if we’re punk enough, to stick two fingers up to the world.